Swindale, Drissel & quite a bit of Wind

Went climing up Swindale last night with Mike Elliot. We had a mission to do a couple of E2's, one on the 'One Step Beyond' Slab called 'One Last Step', you have to climb Dog Leg Crack to get to it, but after doing that and getting pretty pumped, I thought about traversing into it, until a gust of wind buffeted me a little hard & my poor little forearms said, no, don't do it. So I didn't & opted for the easy option of finishing Dog Leg Crack. Its a good route, but short lived. The wind was pretty full on, gusting force 6 or 7. It was pretty amazing watching the grass in the valley floor being buffeted as the wind tore across the fields. We then had aspirations of climbing Blood Hound again, but as Mike started to lead drissle came in from the South West & put a stop to that as well, so he opted to climb Hind Leg Crack instead. Although I had climbed this with David the week before, it was a good option & to add a bit of interest I seconded it barefoot. The dampnes on the rock seamed to add friction to my feet. I think I would like to start climbing barefoot a bit more, certainly classic routes would be fine, but above VS it may start to get a bit harder on our Lakeland rock, although it never seems to effect Bernd Arnold on the German/Cezch Sandstone who always climbs barefoot, up to the top grades.

Clouds3

I used my GoLite Peak again & I think this will become my summer climbing pack as it is the perfect size & has enough features to carry food, dogleads, maps, guidebooks etc. As always my trusty Montane Terra Shirt kept the wind off, but unfortunately Montane don't produce it anymore, it wasn't commercial. Shame that alot of the best designs aren't commercial, because the masses don't see the benifits, its a true uers piece being made from Pertex IBQ, an excellent fabric. Under that for the 2nd route I used a Marmot Mid Crew Base Layer, these are probably the best base layers I have come across for moving moisture & drying fast. They have Cocona woven into the fibres, which is burnt coconut husks producing carbon that is hungry for electrons to stabalise itself, as your body perspires & odors develop & the carbon hungry electrons grab hold of the odor producing molecules, thus locking the odor in with the carbon molecules, until the top is washed. The idea of this is to try to elliminate odor from your polyester base layers. It does work to a certain degree, although it doesn't elliminate it completely, but its so much better than the origonal 'smelly Helly'.

By Charlie

Climbing ‘Perhaps Not’, White Ghyll, Langdale

Went climbing with Barney Whiteside last night, should have been running in the Saunders Mountain Marathon in the Klets class, but didn't feel up to it, so opted for working in the day, to clear up a few things, then off to White Ghyll Langdale last night. We did a route called 'Perhaps Not' & on the 2nd & 3RD Pitch you could see why they named it that!! Suspect rock & gear placements on the second pitch led to an off balance & slightly in-secure belay, followed by an open groove chimney to a pretty commiting move to reach more holds, albit big, but again, slightly suspect. I watched Barney struggle abit & then on reaching the big flat crucial hold cutting completely loose & swinging his feet towards the safety of new foot holds & reaching the belay. Wish I had had my camera.... sorry but no pics. Suffice to say, the belay was a bit rubbish..... The last pitch was a joy of face climbing on excellent rough lakeland volcanic. A classic lakeland outing, with a variation of styles. A bit peaky in places, but what an amazing route, especially when you realise it was led in 1949. Jim Birkett & Len Muscroft were hard tough guys. Barney & I climbed it with just wires & rocks, friends & hexs would have made it more secure, but Jim & Len would have climbed it in plimsoles or maybe hobnails, with a hemp rope & pegs as the best bit of kit they had. Full on!! Its raining today, but it we need it..... Hopefully we are due more as well.

I was using a GoLite Peak Pack to carry my gear in, its the first time I have used one, I new I would like it, as I love the Jam & have always wanted a smaller version. GoLite have done a good job here, as they hyave kept with the Jam, but added a few good features, which I am yet to use. I will comment on these later after I have used it a bit more. I also took my Montane Fireball Primaloft top, even though its been very warm, I figured the wind could knock the edge off it & I was right. I was glad I did. I think the fireball is a great bit of kit, just the right fit for climbing, running & hanging around, but I think the addition of a quantum pertex hood, that zips into the collar would be a good thing, no doubt it would increase the price, but I has a cold head & forgot to take a hat, it is mid-summer after all. So in that instance, a hood would have been great. Look out for these tops at the start of September, tyhey are a must for running, climbing & fast & light travel in mountainous regions.

More on the Montane Fireball & GoLite Peak very soon. 

Charlie