Patterdale to Keld, 3 Days on the Coast to Coast

It all began with a telephone call in February from my cousin Desmond and his wife Shonagh. They very kindly asked if I would like to accompany them on the Coast to Coast Walk from St Bees to Robin Hoods Bay with a group of friends. The answer was a resounding yes!  After some thought, I decided that the 3 days starting from Patterdale and ending in Keld would fit in with my work schedule. The attraction of these of these three legs is that the geology and landscape is constantly changing starting in the Lakeland Mountains then travelling onward through the Eden Valley’s Limestone Scars and pavements and peaceful farmland just to the north of the Howgill Fells before finally ascending Nine Standards Rigg and crossing the wild heather moorland ending in North Yorkshire. I had arranged with Desmond and Shonagh to meet them in the late afternoon at Patterdale where I had booked B&B at the Glebe House B&B situated between the Church and the Patterdale Hotel. Rachael my wife very kindly drove me there from Kendal via Windermere and over the Kirkstone pass. Leaving Kendal in the sunshine we were soon driving up Troutbeck running into low cloud shielding the summit ridges from view, all very atmospheric! Crossing the summit and starting the descend toward Brothers Water the cloud vanished and the sunshine suddenly appeared. The contrast between the south side of the pass and the north side could not be starker! Arriving in Patterdale we located the B&B where I booked in and walked into the village looking for the arrival of the group. Soon after “The Good Companions” started to arrive after a long tough day with 1 goal in mind, a few pints of locally brewed Ale and a bite to eat at the White Lion Hotel. Everyone had a really good days walking having just completed the Rosthwaite to Patterdale section. After a few beers and a meal it was time to walk back to our rooms for a good nights sleep. Day 1 Patterdale to Shap 17 miles 2,700 ft of ascent

The day dawned sunny with cool northerly winds, a polar airstream that had been commonplace for much of the winter. After a full “English Breakfast” we were ready to go. I had acquired sandwiches at the local shop and had already filled my Source 2 Litre Hydration Bladder with water plus NUUN hydration tablets. In addition I had a selection of high-energy food bars to eat along the way to maintain a good pace over rugged terrain. Leaving Patterdale village the valley floor is crossed arriving at the small hamlet of Rooking, situated under Place Fell where the sloping path up the open Fellside would take us up to Boardale Hause. Starting the ascent I use my “Pacer Poles” that allow the arms, shoulders and upper body to take a significant load off my legs. All in all it makes for a much more evenly balanced effort. The views as we ascended were outstanding in the sunny morning light. Brothers Water soon appearing to our right as we gained altitude followed by views up to Kirstone Pass, Deepdale to our right followed by stunning views of St Sunday Crag and the Helvellyn range. The high Coves still with many snow drifts and cornices left for all to see testified to what a remarkably wonderful winter it had been for those who enjoy an adventurous challenge. Gaining Boardale Hause we continued up toward Angle Tarn. Angle Tarn with it’s own island and a small peninsula is where my wife Rachael and I camped many years ago. It’s interesting to look at the difference between the vegetation on the surrounding open fell and that on the island which is all down to the selective eating habits of resident sheep that tend to reduce bio diversity wherever they graze. A quick look at the island flora that includes heather, bilberry, many grasses, birch and rowan all illustrate how the open fell looked centuries ago before the advent of upland grazing. Progressing onward and upward we soon reach a point from where we are able to see Hayeswater backed and surrounded by craggy valley heads and summits such as The Knott, High Street, Thornthwaite Beacon and Stonycove Pike. The path carries on south easterly to High Street giving us views of Martindale and Rampsgill Head to the north. For me Martindale and its associated valleys of Bannerdale and Boredale are very special places. It is only recently that access has been given to parts of the valley that previously had been prohibited. The Nab a prominent fell has the title of a “Deer Forest” and is the home of the Martindale Red Deer herd. One of autumn’s pleasures is to visit the area on a sunny afternoon when the leaves on the trees and the bracken are at their best. This is when the Rut is in full swing with the stags pawing the ground in front of them challenging all suitors to combat. The deep bellowing from far up the valleys and the crash as antler meet antler is just nature at its very best, memories to treasure! Another interesting place here is a dwelling situated just below Gowk Hill. The Bungalow, a detached, single storey former shooting lodge constructed in 1910 by the Earl of Lonsdale for a visit by Kaiser Wilhelm to the Martindale deer shoot. Carrying on upwards we arrive on the High Street ridge that divides Patterdale from Mardale. The views are just stunning, Kidsty Pike in front, far beyond our first glimpse of the Pennines and closer to hand Riggindale and it’s rocky ridges that were home to England’s only eagles until recently. Standing in the sunlight looking south Mark and I can the most amazing spectre, a layer of cloud reminiscent of a gigantic waterfall cascades over the fell tops and ridges vanishing as it falls toward the dale bottoms. We walk along the ridge and pause on Kidsty Pike summit waiting for the rest of the group to catch up. Large snowdrifts still fill all the gully’s glinting in the bright morning sunlight while just below and to the east we get our first view of Mardale and Haweswater. There had always been a lake in Mardale and a thriving farming community with a Church and a village Pub until the 1930’s when a dam was constructed creating a man-made reservoir to supply water to the industrial towns of the northwest. Descending down in to the valley we all sit by a beck next to the lakeshore where we have lunch in the sunlight. From here the route follows a path all the way along the northern shoreline towards Burnbanks, a hamlet situated just below the Dam. Passing through a small wood we arrive at Naddle Bridge that is a remarkable mixture of old and new side by side. The new is the road bridge constructed in the 1930’s and the old is an original Lakeland Packhorse bridge. Just by the bridge is Desmond who in his today’s support role has driven round from Patterdale to provide us with sustenance in the form of tea and biscuits and cake! At this point the walk goes through a massive landscape change all due to the geology under foot. The volcanic series is now behind us as we enter into a different zone of limestone scars overlaying red sandstone in valley and river bottoms. We are entering the Eden valley that is a beautifully tranquil place in which to walk, the lower pastures supporting dairy and arable farming with sheep on the higher ground throughout the summer. Leaving the two bridges behind we walk along the path by the Haweswater Beck towards Rosgill that sits overlooking the River Lowther. Here we follow the path to the south soon crossing Swindale Beck on another stunning medieval bridge known as Parish Crag Bridge. It’s worth spending a moment or two just viewing the arch from upstream to get the full perspective. A few fields later and suddenly the outline of Shap Abbey appear ahead. For many years it held massive land holdings and had a major part in converting the eastern fells to sheep grazing, an act that changed the landscape from a wilder wooded one to what we see today. It’s worth stopping briefly at the Abbey just to get a perspective of its size and grandeur. Leaving and walking up a steep incline toward Shap I begin to feel a sense of urgency from within as my taste buds kicked into action at the thought of a pint of “Blond” Ale at the bar of the “The Greyhound” pub!  Soon arriving in the village and it’s the end to a stunning day with magnificent views that couldn’t have been better. My “Good Companions” and I had walked 17 miles with 2,700 feet of ascent. After few beers and a shower later I was ready for dinner! It was great to have everyone round the same table and we were able chew over the events of a wonderful shared day. After a few nightcaps it was time to hit the sac sleep well and waken up ready to do combat on the next section. Day 2 Shap to Kirkby Lonsdale 20 miles 1600 feet of ascent I was woken up by the sound of raucous rooks nesting in a group of Beech trees adjacent to the hotel, a truly rural awakening on a lovely sunny morning. It all looked very promising for the day ahead. Armed with enthusiasm I was out of bed, organising my kit ready for a great day ahead. Breakfast was the “Full English” not something I do very often but appropriate for an energetic day out on the hill. We meet the group outside the Kings Head and set off to the east crossing the railway line followed soon after by the M6 motorway and it’s constant traffic noise! The first target is Oddendale passing limestone quarries along the way. After this we encounter our first moorland, an interesting environment that supports Red Grouse, heather, bilberries as well as many invertebrates. Bees for example produce superb honey from the summer flowering of the heather. The route now takes us in a southeasterly direction over the moors where coveys of Grouse cackle as they’re flushed from the surrounding heather.  To the south we are able to see the wonderful vista of the northern Howgills, compact steep rounded hills that are well worth exploring! Speaking from personal experience anyone looking for a demanding mission would be well advised to give the Hugh Symonds Howgill Challenge a go. There are 31 tops above 1500 feet and plenty of steep ascents and descents that will test all who have the focus and the energy to succeed Ahead of us soon is Orton Scar where the path turns to the south where a welcome break in the lovely village of Orton awaits us. Shonagh is today in a support role and has driven from Shap to Orton so that from the back of the car she can brew up and offering us tea and nibbles as we pass though. As it happens there is a farmers market in the village centre but our focus is on Kirkby Stephen and so after tea and cakes we are off again this time to the east. The route is straightforward and easy to follow mostly through farmland pastures and we all make good progress passing through the hamlet of Sunbiggin followed by Sunbiggin tarn and Ravenstonedale Moor. The views all around are just lovely in the bright sunny afternoon. Next we pass by Bents Farm and over Begin Hill from where the descent down into Smardale begins. Tony unfortunately had been suffering from foot discomfort that seemed to be getting worse and so Desmond and I decided that missing out Smardale fell and walking along what once was the old Darlington to Tebay railroad would be a better option for him. The railroad survived until its closure by Dr Beeching in the 1960’s as part of a major cost cutting exercise across the rail network. Sad really, but on a positive note the Smardale gorge is now an SSSI and major effort has been made to restore and  encourage the growth of species native to the Limestone landscape. The viaduct is just a stunning example of Victorian architecture all built with red sandstone from the Eden Valley. Indeed at the bottom of the limestone gorge are the remains of small quarries that supplied the underlying sandstones for some of the construction. Adjacent to the track on the south side of the viaduct are huge limekilns, another part in the construction programme. It’s a pleasure to walk along the Ash woodland on either side of the old track where wild garlic, lilies and primula’s abound. Approaching Kirkby Lonsdale leaving the old railroad we join a narrow lane into the town and it’s impressive square where we see a pub who’s forecourt has tables and chairs outside basking in the late afternoon sunlight. Too good an offer to miss so the beer is chosen, the glasses filled and we sit outside enjoying a fine pint disturbed only by resident Macaws that perch then fly screeching over the rooftops. It would be interesting to find just how they arrived in the town!  After the pub everyone retires to register into pre-booked accommodation prior to an evening meal at a local restaurant. It was another great day out for the “Good Companions”, 20 miles and 1,600’ of ascent and descent all in just the most glorious weather. Above Kirkby Stephen to the east sits Nine Standards Rigg that we will cross the following day on our way to Keld in North Yorkshire. Day 3 Kikby Stephen to Keld 12 miles 1900 feet of ascent After breakfast everyone meets and soon we’re on our way walking down to the main square. The route takes us down to Frank’s Bridge crossing the River Eden and into the fields beyond toward Hartley. Walking through the village the road steepens and gaining height soon pass large Limestone Quarries on the right. Soon after the road comes to an end joining a bridleway guiding us onward.  Getting higher the views are just fabulous! To the southwest are Mallerstang, Wild Boar Fell and the Howgills. To the west the Lakeland fells can be seen and to the north Cross Fell still holding on to massive snowdrifts for all to see! Shattering the peace and tranquillity of the valley is the intrusive sound of heavy artillery and small arms fire from the Warcop Military Camp and firing range. Just to the north of Nine Standards Rigg Trig-point is cluster of nine tall cairns. There are many differing opinions as to why they are there, however what cannot be denied is that they are landmarks that can be seen from a long distance in clear weather. Now the route turning south takes us over the high point of the day at 2,171 feet soon crossing over into North Yorkshire leaving Cumbria behind.  Classic high Pennine Moorland surrounds us, a treeless landscape covered with heather, bilberries upland grasses all overlying deep layers of peat. This is a valuable ecosystem, the deep peat layers of Peat storing significant amounts of carbon. Many interesting invertebrates inhabit the area and Red Grouse are commonplace encouraged by careful moorland management and controlling sheep grazing numbers all designed to promote balanced bio-diversity. To the west we see  men carefully burning heather taking care not to over-burn or allow the peaty soil to catch fire that could cause a major problem! Managed burning helps to promote new growth and maintain healthy vigorous heather that will have a positive effect on the flora and fauna. Trekking over such ground one soon begins to realise just how tough the going can get. There are many peat hags we must cross that are very boggy at the bottom. Choosing the right place is critical or you can find yourself sinking quickly up to knee-level in a flash! Poles can be really helpful on terrain of this kind.  Overhead are curlews crying out their unique mournful calls and as the descent continues I spot a solitary Stone Curlew a much smaller bird. Poles can be really helpful on terrain of this kind. Descending along Coldbergh Edge we join the footpath from Birkdale to Ravenseat near the head of Whitsun Dale. The cool northerly breeze experienced higher up has gone and it’s much warmer as we descend stopping for lunch where the path crosses Ney Gill. Small stone Barns dot the landscape that I think were built to store hay as winter fodder for the cattle. Certainly during the recent hard winter such a resource would have been vital for small farmsteads isolated far up windswept valleys under deep snow. Lunch soon over we pass through Ravenseat a group of cottages, and farm buildings. Hens strut around the paddock scratting for morsels of food as we pass by soon gaining the east bank of Whitsundale Beck that flows into precipitous limestone gorge. It’s not long before the river Swale appears and our destination is reached. Arriving in Keld, Rachael was there to pick me up and ferry me home. Normally I’d end a good walk out with a pint however there wasn’t a Pub in the village any longer so welcome cups of tea and cake at a local Guest House would just have to do!. It’d been a really great walk and the contrasts between Patterdale and where we were now couldn’t have been greater. The constant changes in the different landscapes we passed through are a major factor in why the Coast to Coast is so popular. My sincere thanks to the “Good Companions”, Desmond and Shonagh Finnan, Mark Taylor, Nigel White and Tony Walsh all of whom made the 3 days such good fun.  Now I was on my way back to “The Lakes” where I had lived for most of my life, a decision I have never regretted! Conclusion Having checked out MWIS (Mountain Weather Information Service) 3 day forecast from our shop website it was clear that a high pressure to the north would feed a north easterly airstream and sunny conditions generally prevailing with some risk of frost overnight. It would be warmer at lower levels out of the breeze. My gear selection covered all options just in case the weather decided to do its own thing! As it happened waterproofs were not needed but wind proof items such as my Golite unlined windshirt were used at a lower levels and the Marmot DriClime jacket with a superlite fleece lining was superb when layered over a lightweight Golite Powerstretch style pullover for the colder conditions experienced on the tops. Light, compact with high levels of breathability they ensure comfort in dry windy conditions. A Go-lite short-sleeved polyester T-shirt provided quick wicking of moisture to give comfort and warmth at skin level. RAB Treklite wind resistant fast drying stretch pants were versatile and ideal for the conditions encountered. Accessories included Marmot Stretch Windproof gloves for cold windy conditions and a winter fleece Buff to keep my head and ears warm (A really good piece of kit!). Footwear; AKU Slope lightweight Gore-tex boots and Wigwam lightweight trekking socks both ideal for the terrain and conditions underfoot. Walking Poles. Fibre Glass Pacer Poles with their unique handle design are without any doubt at all the best most efficient poles I’ve ever used. When ascending they allow ones arms and shoulders to share the effort required during a climb by taking pressure off the legs. In other words it balances upward movement at the same time using energy much more efficiently Source 2 litre Hydration Bladder.  A superb piece of kit that I consider essential to maintain the regular intake of fluid on the trail. I use this item in conjunction with Nuun active hydration tablets dissolved at the time of filling to maintain effective re-hydration. Energy Foods for use on the move are Castus Fruit Bars, Clif Shot Blocs, Clif energy Bars and Munchy Seeds. Other items include; Compass with magnifier for map detail and navigation, Harvey’s Coast to Coast West Map, Petzl Headlamp for night use, Adventure Medical Kit (Personal) and Garmin E-trex Summit basic GPS carried in the lid of my OMM Jirishanca 35 Litre Sac only to be switched on in an emergency and finally Sun Cream.