Kirkstone Pass and Red Scree's

I have been going up Kirkstone Pass and Red Scree's for years now. I learnt to ski up there when we had the shop, as its first incarnation, The Fellsman, when we put a rope tow up most Sunday's when there was snow. We used to charge 50p per day for use of the tow, to cover the fuel costs and our chicken and chips in a basket (a real one, not this plastic rubbish you get now-a-days) in the Kirkstone Pass Inn, when we were too cold and wet and neaded some solice. I remember one year we made an igloo on the side of St Ravens Edge.

Now, as I have been back in the Lakes for 10 years, I have been up and down Red Scree's many time. It is such easy access and if the gritter is able to keep the road open, then you up high before you even step out of yor car.

Kirkstone Pass and Red Scree's is used by all. You find sledgers, skiers and boarders, runner, walkers, climbers and a mulirtude of people just wanting a quick drink in the highest pub in England and to enjoy the feel of winter.

Yesterday I had 3 occurances with Red Scree's. After a little too much to drink on Saturday night, after a Christmas drinks party, I awoke to the obligitory dry mouth, badger shit 9or at least iot tastes like it, and slight skullrock (headache to the uninitiated) associated wiht too much alcohol. Still, there is coffee to help ease the pain. I had promised to take Nicola and kids to the Kendal Dry Ski Slope for practice for Isaac and Millie's on coming ski holiday with there Dad. The weather was amazing, with wall to wall blue skies. Why were we heading to a dry ski slope? I have only been on one, maybe once or twice, but Isaac wanted to go, so thats what we did. [a foot note: If we had skis for Isaac and Millie, I would have insisted we headed to Kirkstone, but.... we didn't) We arrived at the slope, got kitted up, I used my telemarks, for a bit of practice... don't have alpine skies anymore really. Isaac just got on with himself and for a kid who has only had onbe week on snow, he was pretty good, able to look after himself and confident enough. He'll be jumping cliffs in no time and ripping up the park as soon as he can. I helped and taught Millie again and I was happy to see she remembered lots from our 3 day's in Scotland earlier in the year. This was number 1, as I looked longingly at the white mountains in the distance from the dry slope, but with the knowledge I would be up there soon, sliding around.

Nic and kids went to thier grandparents for lunch and family time, I got a pass out and headed off to meet JP at Kirkstone for more fun.

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Looking up the ascent path.
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The line we skied/boarded is just under the left of where the sun finishes in the bowl in the middle of the photograph

Red Scree's looked plastered, but on arriving it seamed to have less snow than when I skied down it 2 winters ago, but there looked enough and other people had already been down the bowl. JP, with snowboard in hand  and me, with my telemarks over my shoulder, headed up the path to make our way into the bowl. Its not a hard walk up and soon we were climbing the exit gully on the leftside of the mountain as you look up at it.

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Pepa sitting in the exit gully of Red Scree's

From here we traversed across the slope and walked up out of where we were to ski/board down. As you look at the bowl, you have Raven Crag on the left, a steep gully just to the left of that, then some craglets, then a less defined gully weaving its way through the craglets and rock bands, then scree and the exit gully. We came down the less defined gully. It was steep, narrow at points and as ever, changable snow from top to bottom. JP, a seasoned and very compitent snowboarder, looked comfortable at the thought of heading down, where as I , a compitent telemarker, but not so confident on this ground, was a lot more nervous. I cursed I had not put on my helmet. We met a friend at the top of the gully, Wesley Orvis from Kendal, he had soloed up Kilnshaw Chimney, a great way to the top of the crag and reported it to be a snow slope all the way, the chimney choked with snow. Now was the time for the descent. JP dropped off the side of the slight cornice at the top and I gingerly turned on easier ground to start heading down. Both of us side slipped the next section to where there was a constriction. Alpine turns, step turns and side slipping saw me through the constriction and ready to watch JP make short work of it, which he duely did. Thankfully the angle eases and I was able to drop back into Tele-style turns, which I find ultra commiting and pretty hard on steeper terrain. Here I cursed for the lack of knee pads as rocks rushed past my dropped knee's. A few falls in deeper & heavier snow, and a 'picked line' saw us back at the carpark. The van was waiting with the burner still smoking away, ready to be stoked up. Wesley dropped in for a chat and JP and Nette (his wife) departed.I headed off for Nicola's parents and some cups of tea.That was number 2.

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Snow capped Lakeland fells over the back of Red Scree's.
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Sunset on the summit

Night arrives, and Nicola and I say our goodnights to kids and Nicola's parents and head back up Kirkstone Pass for a revisit on Kilnshaw Chimney. We geared up in the van, with the warmth of the burner making it hard to get ready quickly, not really wanting to get out into the cold, but then once you're out there it all ok really.

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We used Kahtoola KTS Steels for the ascent, knowing it was only a snow slope, they seemed perfectly adiquate and I don'rt mind walking on semi rock ground wiht them, as they're not my climbing crampons.
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Nicola had my axes, I used my ultra-light Camp Corsa Axe, perfect for this type of action. We were at the foot of the chimney in half the time we were the other night and started our way up un-roped.
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Charlie

Halfway up, the rope came out for Nicola's confidence and we made 2 pitches to the top, Nicola making a mini third as she headed off above the rope. The top gained and we headed for the descent path and the warmth of the van. The views from the top were beautiful. This was number 3.

So, Red Scree's showed me itself in the morning, capped in sparkling whiteness, welcomed me in the afternoon and let me slide down its belly on beautifully formed snow and then let us enter its guts as we walked up the banked out snow slopes of Kilnshaw Chimney for our finaley of the day. The views all round were fantastic and the lights of all the towns and villages, under dark cloud and the night sky were just perfect. A great day out on one mountain, and so many different things you can do on it. The possibilities are endless... or almost....

Failed mission to the Ben

Tried to get a few days climbing up on the Ben late last week, but I knew it was destined to fail as I have had a bad cold/chest for a few weeks & was only just recovering, but sometimes, especialy when you haven't had much action due to work, you have to push the preverbial boat out... so we did. Honza & I set off for Fort William at 6pm on Wednesday, typically 2 hours later than planned.

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We made good time in my van and got to the North Face carpark at 11:30pm. We had said we would walk in, so we did, after getting our kit ready & consuming too much wine. This led us a a large detour as we walked the track through the forest, towards Aonach Mor, not the Allt a'Mhuillinn path upto the Ben... Mmmn, mental note not to get blind drunk late at night before walking into the Ben. We turned around and headed back the same direction before getting back on track. It put us a long way behind & left us pretty tired for climbing after walking for miles with 25Kg+ packs on our backs for 3/4 days climbing we had planned. When we woke, after me pitching the GoLite Shangri-la 3 on a little flat platuea just above the CIC hut in the early hours of the morning, there was a thaw in progress. The freezing level had risen above the summits. Next mental note, remember to check the weather before driving 5 ½ hours north for winter climbing. Honza felt dreadful, suspected hangover... but maybe something more. Both tired, we slept a little longer, but I awoke to warmer temps & a groaning Honza, now suspected ill. I still had a terrible cough, so after looking at the Orion Face and getting a weather report to find we would have warm temps until Saturday, we decided to head back down to the van & drive across to the Cairngorms for a day or 2 of ski touring.. we or I fancied a traverse of the platuea to Ben Macdui.

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We got to the van after a slow walk & then a lift off Roger Cauldershot, a guide from the Lakes who works for Lyon Equipment, this took the sting out of the walk through the woods. Roger had been out & climbed Tower Scoop, a grade 2/3 ice line of 2 pitches with a client and reported good ice, 7 screws used. At the van, after assessing how we both felt, we decided, as crazy as it is, to head back to the Lakes. 5½ hours later we were back at home, tails between our legs, both feeling pretty awful.  2 days rest and I was about back on my feet, Honza has needed a little more time, as I was already through the worst of the virus, just with the cough left to deal with. Moral of the story is: If your feeling a little tired & under the weather then don't head for 5 and a half hours north in your van to push it out climbing winter style, stay at home in bed & get some rest. And if you do go, don't be tempted by a bottle of wine and a lovely walk to the north face, actually go to bed, get some rest & slog it out the next day!! Still, you live and learn & its all training at the end of the day, but you may not see it like that at the time...

Christmas Outdoor Fun - Skating & Rampsgill Head

The weather has been excellent running up to Christmas & it looks set to stay good into next year. The forecast shows  thaw for the next 3 to 4 day's & then on by the weekend it is set to start freezing again. Today's snow will have brought harder mixed climbing into condition, and another dump of snow is forecast for tomorrow morning, which will make it hard to travel anywhere off the main roads in the Lakes. It is due to warm up tomorrow afternoon and it will strip the crags & fells of alot of the snow cover (hopefully not all), but hopefully the ice should all stay in place & get harder, better & more tempered as it freezes again. The night before Christmas Eve, Mike Elliot & myself went to have a look at Honister Icefalls on Gantry Crag. They were forming, but needed more time as water was running down the back & pouring over the front, so we soloed a little beck that runs under the mining tracks & the headed for a solo ascent of Sour Milk Gill. This was in general 1 foot thick all the way & gave excellent low grade climbing all the way to the top. Christmas day; Nicola & I headed to Ratherheath Tarn just outside Kendal for an hour of ice skating. Great fun & I was pleased I could still do it, after not being on skates since I was 13, thats 24 years ago... amazing what the muscles & cells remember. Boxing Day; Nicola & I headed over to Hartsop. As we came over Kirkstone, ice was abundant. In the quarry a good section of columns & curtains was formed, Raven Crag was plastered in ice, Kilnshaw Chimney will have a good ice step now formed, the corners above the Kirkstone as you drive over into Patterdale were in excellent condition with fangs/daggers of ice hanging from many rocks & boulders across the fell side. The crag up in the east corrie of Red Screes will be holding good ice as well. We arrived in Hartsop, got geared up, light style with OMM Packs, a 30m Tendon Scrambling rope, a couple of warthogs & pegs, Kahtoola KTS Steels & Microspikes & a Trad Axe for Nic, I used my ultra-light Camp Corsa Axe (not rated for climbing, but surely ok for ascending grade 1 snow slopes).

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We walked up to Hayes Water, over the side of the Knott & down into Martindale underneath Rampsgill Head. As we descended the gully into the valley I was watching to see what windslab had formed.As we came further down, I stepped in softer snow, which happened to be windslab & a big plate broke away, fracturing above and around where I was standing. A sign that we all need to be conscious of avalanche conditions which wil form in the Lakes again this winter season.

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We then took off our Microspikes & put KTS Steels onto our Inov-8 Roclite 400's, scooted across to the base of the crag & climbed a snow gully weaving up the crag, no particular route, just an introduction to winter climbing for Nicola. We moved together for part of the ascent & I belayed Nicola for confidence on the more exposed parts, using traditional methods of standing on frozen tufts and body belaying. Looking at the fells around, it looks to get better & better for winter ice, as the build-up is happening either lower down, or on natural water course lines. Lets see what the next few days bring, but things look like they will continue with a possible hard base down for skiing next time the snow comes.

Sad News: A man has died at Cautley Spout, Eastern Howgills whilst ice climbing, the report I have read doesn't say much, but it is a stark reminder for us all to excersize great care when climbing ice, although it can feel safe, things can go wrong. Special care should be taken whilst climbing waterfalls, they can fracture, you can fall through. Our sincere condolances go out to the family & friend of this tradgic accident. MWIS Planning Outlook: Planning Outlook: All mountain areas of Britain from Wednesday, 29th December, 2010 Persistent thaw with extensive low cloud and patchy rain until Thursday. Winds will fall light. An area of high pressure will move southwards across Britain over the New Year Weekend, bringing a slight drop in temperature level, but most slopes will remain above freezing point. Most areas dry, but later in the weekend, patchy showery rain may spread into northern Scotland.

The long walk to Pillar Rock - Winter Conditions Report

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Honza and I made the long walk into Pillar, a little further than it had to be!! But its all training. After working far too many days in a row we headed out to Ennerdale Water, parked in the wrong car park, bedded down in the van, had a few ciders with burner going & got some shut eye for the following day. I woke early for morning needs & headed outside, to catch a glimpse of the Lunar Eclipse, then back to bed for more sleep for the on coming day. We woke around 9am, got the burner going, had coffee & breakfast, got the dogs sorted for a cold day in the van & then headed up the east side of Ennerdale water for our long walk in. The day was amazing, beautiful light & sky all the way. We cursed ourselves for parking in the wrong carpark, but you can't get everything right. I guess we got to Pillar around lunchtime, neither of us having a watch meant we were just there, no pressure, no problems. We had hoped to see the crag holding snow, but it was a bit hopefull & when we saw Pillar Rock in all her glory, we were slightly repelled by the dry rock we saw. Thankfully our back-up plan for climbing Waterfall Gully was a good option.

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We geared up at the bottom and soloed up to the main icefall pitch. It looked in good conditions, but a little thin, so Honza tied on the sharp end & set off up the ice column of ice on the left of the gully. A few hollow sounding placements brought moans from Honza, but he sailed up it like all was ok.... I should learn.

Waterfall-gully
As Honza made a belay at the top, I put my pack on containing a rope, all our rock gear (which had been brought in hope of a harder line on Pillar itself) & other stuff, weighing in at above 10kg. Of course I didn't think what effect this would have on my forearms as I started climbing, but with-in taking out the first 2 bits of gear, I was majorly pumped & srcabbling aorund too far left in the corner, back footing, not properly on the column itself. Now I understood the groans from Honza before. As I buried my right axe in the hollowest section & my left close by, I cut looose slightly to swing across. Of course the ice gave way & sheared into the waterfall behind, spitting me off & testing out honza's belay above. All was well, bar my over pumped hands from gripping my axes too hard. I pulled back on & shakely climbed the now thinner, hollow ice above, pulling out into the scoop at the top, breathing hard. The rest was following neve above in strips to the top out to an amzing backdrop over Fleetwith Pike, Dalehead & in the background was Blencathra with the moon rising to the right.

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All in all a pretty good way to spend the winter solstice, with a Lunar Eclipse in the morning, a battle of a walk in with winter boots on, beautiful ice to climb to the top of Pillar & then walk back out by the light of the Full Moon. You can't really ask for more. Conditions on the fells right now are great for water ice climbing. Where-ever a water course runs down the fell, over rock,  or down a gully, then its a pretty certain bet that it is frozen & ready to climb. Reports of all ice in condition around Thirlmere, Blea Tarn is in excellent condition, Grasmoor & surrounding area's must have good condition & I have friends heading out to Cautley Spout tonight. Myself & Mike Elliot are heading to somewhere tonight, maybe Lower Gantry as we had a brief look when we drove over Honister on Monday night showing the ice there was also in great conditions & the drive down into Buttermere was interesting, snow tires were certainly a help, a little ice on the road adds to the adrenaline. If your into Ice Skating, then pretty much any small tarn you can think of will be good for skating. Ratherheath is always a certain, but I think it is take your pick until after boxing day.  For skiing there maybe area's which are holding old snow from a few weeks ago, but it will be a walk. The Helvellyn Ridge is maybe ski-able with care, but I haven't had reports back as of yet. Really, more snow is needed for good skiing conditions, but if you head east towards Cross Fell, then I am sure you will find something to mess around on. For runners, well the conditions are great, especially if you own a pair of Kahtoola Microspikes, which give great traction on icey/hardpack snowy conditions. I have heard of 2 attempts a a winter Bob Graham, but unfortunately both were unsucsessful. Steve Ashworth set of with a friend, un-supported, on Monday night, to get to the Dunmail Road cross & call it a day due to being behind schedule, his mate carried on, calling for a pickup in Langdale. The other I heard about was Jim Evans (?),  being supported by Ambleside AC, but this was cancelled before the set off. Hopefully someone out there managed it in the excellent weather condtions we have been blessed with. If your out winter walking then enjoy safely. Make sure you have full winter equipment, including axe & crampons (Kahtoola KTS Steels are a great option), capabilty to make hot food, have shelter, a sleeping bag & of course a map & compass. better safe than sorry!! ;-)

Have a Happy Snow Christmas,

The Outdoor Warehouse Team

2-climbers

Fell Top Conditions Report - 6th Dec 2010

I've been pretty busy for the last week, since the snow fell & it has meant I have neglected getting a fell top report loaded for the end of the week. Sorry... So here we go then, I have skied to work 3 times last week and this morning as well (testing out my new Silvereta 505 bindings on my older Volkl Tele Toruing skis, I think I have mounted them too far back), taken Nicola out on Friday night for her first time on XC Touring skis, been out for a failed mission with Honza two nights ago & tried to ski round the Fairfiled Horseshoe on Thursday morning before starting work.

Conditions are excellent in the fells at the moment, there was about 5" of even snow cover put down on Friday with little wind blowing so this will have covered the whole of the Lakes very nicely. Saturday saw a thaw coming in, as an Atlantic low pressure pushed its way onto the shores of the UK & the Lake District in general. This has allowed alot of the snow, which was largely unconsolidated, to settle down. So we have the start of a good base for skiers & more stable snow on & around the crags for climbing. Last night another 3/4 inches of snow in Windermere has meant a fresh covering over harder packed snow. Care should now be taken to approaches to crags that are/maybe loaded. I have heard reports of all the low level ice coming in, ascents of Low Water Beck-Coniston, Launchy Gill-Thirlmere, Brown Cove Crag has seen lots of action, Gable has had several teams making ascents of Jaberwock, Engineers Chimney, Engineers Slabs & Snickersnap. Honister Icefalls have come into good condition, although there is apparently a diversion in the waterflow & so the routes have formed in a different manner, there may well be access issues now as well. Steve Ashford has repeated Dave Birketts 'The Crack' on Gimmer Crag - Langdale, climbed Asterisk with Woody. Martin from Marmot has been out with Paul Casey of Zero G Climbing equipment over the weekend climbing some water ice in Langdale on the left as you go up Oxendale & I am sure Helvellyn has seen many people climbing all the routes. Blea Water Tarn is in good condition.. need I go on. Basically, this artic airflow has brought the Lakes in to a winter climbers heaven... now its the skiers turn

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David has been XC Skiing from his front door, enjoying setting himself a Loiper (ski tracks) around the fields outside his house & langlaufing every morning.

I made a bundelled attempt at getting round Fairfield Horseshoe on Thursday morning before work on very limited snow cover. I aborted my mission just underneath Great Rigg when I had a call from David letting me know he would be late for work, I realised I was also late for work & descended straight down into Rydal valley on very limited snow cover, along the valley floor & back to Rydal Hall.

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Honza was climbing with Frazer on Dollywagonon the Tursday, I'm not quite sure what route they were on, but it was somewhere around Dollywagon Gully, but a deviation of some sort.

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Fred made a Quinzhee shelter with his flat mate Sonny, first you pile lots of snow into a .... pile, pat it down & then leave it for a couple of hours to settle, after this you start to dig into it, making first a snow tunnel, being careful to always lie face down (if you lie face up and it colapses then you could be 'brown bread' through suffication), make sure you have a friend there in case it colapses, to pull you out. After you have made the tunnel, you continue inside the shelter to dig out a chamber. When ready, you have your Quinzhee shelter ready for sleeping etc.

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So you can see we have all been very busy in the outdoors this week, and we are hoping you have been enjoying this amazing weather as much as we have. Weather conditions for tomorrow look fantastic, hoping to get out on Telemarks in the afternoon. The back of Helvelyn looks excellent.

Keep on enjoying ;-)